Anderson & Co - Light, Bright and Tasty

I've written before about how one of the nicest things about having a blog is the opportunities it creates for meeting like-minded people. So when Jess of Knitting on Trains mentioned that she lived in my neck-of-the-woods and wondered whether I'd like to meet up for afternoon tea I jumped at the chance. I was really keen to re-visit a café I'd had lunch at a few months ago - especially as I'd spent much of the meal looking longingly at their rather good-looking cake selection.

Anderson & Co is on the increasingly posh Bellenden Road in Peckham. Yes, I realise this might come as a surprise to some of you but Peckham has a posh bit. Every time I cycle there some chi-chi new shop has opened. It really is very nice (and in typical London fashion already ruinously expensive). Anderson & Co is one of those places that lets you know that you're a long way from Morrisons and the ubiquitous hair salons and nail bars of the high street.

It looks very light and bright and, I think, has a rather Scandinavian feel with its white and pale grey colour scheme and its counter clad in rough-hewn bits of tree branches. They offer a selection of all-day breakfast items like scrambled eggs served in various ways and a really delicious creamy mushroom dish served on sourdough toast, along with lots of other really good looking lunch options. They've even started opening for dinner a couple of days a week. But this visit was all about the cake.

Jess chose the intriguing sounding Courgette Cake and I couldn't resist the absolutely beautiful looking Red Velvet layer cake. In all honesty it was a slightly odd choice for me as they are not usually one of my favourites but I really am a sucker for a pretty-looking cake. Anyhow, Jess had chosen what would have been my other choice and I was secretly banking on her allowing me to try a bite (forward for a first meeting I know but we've known each other online for years...).  To drink I took the extremely controversial step of having a coffee. I know, I know, what is the name of this bloomin' blog? But in my defence I spotted the Square Mile coffee and I hadn't had one so far that day so it felt reasonable. I did notice they had Tea Pigs tea which it a good thing in my book (not quite as good as top-quality loose leaves but way better than most soggy old teabags).

Firstly, let me say that the decaf latte I ordered was a very good choice. Perfectly made with tiny bubbles of air distributed throughout the milk and none of that airy foam that does nothing except sit there when you've finished the rest of the drink. Jess confirmed that, unsurprisingly, her "proper" latte was equally good.

And the cakes didn't disappoint either. The Red Velvet had that lovely subtle cream cheese taste and just the merest hint of vanilla. Nice as it was though, I confirmed to myself that they really aren't one of my favourite cakes and I should stop ordering them based on how pretty they look. I'm not sure what it is but they somehow just aren't quite enough of anything for my taste. The Courgette cake on the other hand was the thing I should have ordered. Similar in texture to a carrot cake with a tart lime-flavoured cream cheese frosting and chopped pistachios on top: it really was delicious. (As you have probably gathered Jess was kind enough to offer me a taste!) The cakes are all homemade and it shows. Pretty, but not in a mass-produced way and properly tasty these were like the kind of treats you would make at home if you had the time, inclination and baking skills.

It's hard to put my finger on it but there's just something I really like about Anderson & Co. It could be the laid back vibe or the bright and airy interior; but most likely it's the locally-sourced and delicious food. It sort of offers a lot of what I look for in a café and it's a ten minute bike ride from home. As many of you know I really love a place that feels like an old-fashioned afternoon tea spot and that's certainly not the vibe here. But the simple, uncomplicated atmosphere and quality cakes are something I can see myself heading back for again and again.

Sowohl Als Auch - Where Cake is King

I'm not quite sure why I have never written about what is probably my favourite cake place in Berlin. It isn't a reluctance to share the love for fear of never getting a table: the place is always rammed anyway. I think it might have something to do with the fact that my feelings are pretty conflicted about the place.  Sowohl Als Auch occupies a large corner plot in the prettiest bit of Prenzlauer Berg and is always, day and night, really busy. During the summer the enormous terrace is full of locals, tourists, dogs, sparrows, and anyone else who is quick enough to reserve a coveted sunny spot. Even in the autumn everyone huddles under blankets beneath the huge awning that keeps off the rain and the worst of the wind.

In the winter - or the sorry excuse for a spring that we're currently experiencing - getting inside the cafe is an altogether more competitive affair. The decor is loosely styled on a Viennese coffee house: ochre walls; a large mural depicting Klimt's The Kiss; and a vitrine full of amazing-looking cakes. Yesterday we were lucky enough to snag the last free table - right by the door but hey, beggars can't be choosers - and I headed straight for the vitrine. I was disappointed to see that my favourite cake, the richest chocolate ganache layer cake you could possibly imagine, wasn't there. In truth that was probably a good thing because if it's there I can't resist it and I really ought to branch out more in my cake choices.

Coffee Boy & I decided to go for two different cakes (we often share one between us as the pieces are huge but having had no lunch we went for one each) and split them between us. We chose a chocolate praline layer cake and a gooseberry torte.

I've written before about how much I love the German willingness to embrace gooseberries in their cakes and desserts and this confection was just the kind of fruit cake I love. Thin but dense layers of firm sponge sandwiching a huge pile of gooseberries held together with a gooseberry jelly - and all topped of with a thin layer of soft meringue. It was really fantastic: sweet yet sharp; soft but held together; just really tasty. The chocolate praline cake was no slouch either: alternating layers of chocolate sponge and a chocolate praline cream it managed to be both light and rich at the same time. I really hate cakes that look chocolately and taste of nothing much: the cakes at Sowohl Als Auch are never like that.

As far as the hot drinks go they have a really rather good selection of teas, including my favourite Russian Tea served in a lovely little pot and accompanied by a cherry preserve (I never use) to sweeten it. They use loose leaves but inside those large fill-it-yourself teabags that are popular here. The coffees and hot chocolate are pretty good - nothing to write home about but not at all bad either (I realise you're probably looking at the photo above thinking this hot chocolate looks pretty amazing but really it was fine rather than awesome).

I'm aware that I'm not sounding that enthusiastic given I'm claiming Sowohl Als Auch as my favourite cake spot in Berlin. The hot drinks are pretty good; the decor is nice enough but not really the kind I get excited about (and the music they were playing yesterday was terrible!); the service is at worst indifferent and at best Berlin average (more brusque than brisk); but the cake, THE CAKE, is never less than fantastic. That coupled with the fact that it has a great location that really comes into its own in the warmer months is enough to have me returning there on pretty much every stay in the city. And in a place where the cake options are legion that is a serious recommendation.

Clementine Cupcakes

Yesterday I made some pretty amazing cupcakes. Okay you're thinking, calm down with the arrogant claims; but I'm telling you, I can hardly stop myself stuffing my face with the lot of them. Lovely and moist, with a distinct but subtle - almost marmalade - flavour they are pretty much everything I like in a cake.

The inspiration for them came via a rather circuitous route. I noticed a picture of a lovely looking bundt cake on Instagram and the baker @modernhaus was raving about it. She said that the recipe had been for an orange cake but she'd used satsumas instead. Suddenly mindful of the glut of clementines sitting in my fruit bowl I went on the hunt for the recipe but to know avail. And then, a couple of hours later, under another photo of this temptingly good-looking cake, some kind soul posted a link to the recipe. Don't you just love the interwebs?

Anyway, as usual I was reluctant to stick to the recipe as written and decided to mix the ingredients up a bit and make cupcakes instead. For me cupcakes are pretty much the ideal sweet snack. I couldn't care less how fashionable they are or whether I'm meant to have thrown them over for cake-pops or whoopee pies. To my mind a cupcake is the perfect size for an afternoon treat that leaves you satisfied but not stuffed. I also like the fact that they can be taken into work and distributed without the need for knives and plates. Although I warn you, you may not be minded to take these cupcakes anywhere as they're so bloomin' delicious!

You may notice, by the way, that I have opted for neither a buttercream nor a fondant topping. The original recipe called for drizzled icing so I did my own, rather thicker, version of that. It turned out to be fairly perfect for me as I tend to get a bit overwhelmed by a lot of sweet topping on my cakes. I've always steered-clear of a drizzle for cupcakes but having tried it once I will definitely be doing it again. And using blood orange juice gives it this fantastic pink colour without the need for any nasty artificial ingredients. Worth bearing in mind for all sorts of recipes.

Finally, although I find it's entirely possible to do most things without the aid of expensive kitchen gadgets, I think it'd be pretty difficult to prepare the clementines for this recipe without a food processor or good stick blender. 

Clementine Cupcakes (makes 10-12)

115g butter or margarine (room temperature)

100g granulated sugar

1 large egg

225g whole washed clementines (including peel but with green stalks removed)

150g plain flour

1/8 tsp bicarbonate of soda (a pinch if you don't have measuring spoons small enough)

1/4 tsp baking powder

pinch of salt

• Preheat the oven to 170º fan/180ºC/350ºF/gas mark 4
• In a large bowl beat together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy (I use a handheld electric whisk)
• Add the egg and beat until combined
• Place clementines in a food processor (or covered bowl if using a stick blender) and blitz until nearly smooth but still with some texture. Add to the mixture
• Add the flour, bicarbonate of soda, baking powder and salt to the mixture and beat until well-combined
• Pipe or spoon the mixture into a muffin tin lined with paper cases so they are about two-thirds full
• Bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes - I turn my tray 180º after 15 minutes to compensate for hot-spots in my oven. They are ready when a skewer inserted into the cakes comes out clean
• After a few minutes remove the cupcakes from the tray
• Place them on a rack and let them cool thoroughly. Do not attempt to ice until fully cooled

Blood Orange Drizzle

100g icing sugar

20ml of fresh squeezed blood orange juice (normal would work too but won't give the pretty pink colour)

• Combine the orange juice and icing sugar together with a spoon until smooth
• Drizzle onto the cooled cupcakes using a spoon

In Praise of Black Forest Gâteaux

I have been absent from this blog for some time. A combination of work and lack of inspiration has kept me away - apologies for that. But finally I have been driven to write by a truly awesome cake experience.

I've always been a fan of unfashionable food: fondue - one of my favourites; cheese and pineapple hedgehogs - a party nibble of choice; and now Black Forest Gâteaux. I have to admit I've always been a fan in theory. The combination of chocolate, cherry and cream - I mean, what's not to like? But more often than not they're of the light and tasteless variety and never offer enough of a chocolate or cherry hit to be really satisfying. But recently I enjoyed a Black Forest Gâteau - or Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte as they're known in German-speaking countries - so delicious I'm ready to spearhead a one-woman revival.

Having spent the last eight or nine New Year's Eves in Berlin, this year Coffee Boy and I decided to head off to pastures new and avoid the firework-related war zone that the Hauptstadt becomes on December 31st. We caught the train to Strasbourg via Paris (where we enjoyed a lovely crepe and cider for lunch), and after a couple of very Christmassy days (according to the town's own literature Strasbourg is the Capital of Christmas - which was the first we knew about it!), we headed to Baden-Baden to see in the new year.

As well as "taking the waters" by drinking the warm salty spa water, swimming in it at the town's Therme and bathing in it in our hotel room; we visited the beautiful casino (only for a drink mind, I really don't get gambling, and especially Roulette which were the most popular tables. As I watch the croupiers raking in the chips after every spin of the wheel the words "mug's game" spring to the forefront of my mind); and had the most delicious vegetarian feast on New Year's Eve itself. But there was no way I was going to visit the heart of the Black Forest and not try its famed gâteau.

On New Year's Day we were pretty much overjoyed to discover that Café König, the grande dame of Baden-Baden's cafés was open for business. We both went for a slice of the BFG and I, unusually, went for a coffee while Coffee Boy, bucking his moniker, had a hot chocolate. Whilst waiting for our goods to arrive we drank in the old-fashioned ambience of the place: all eighteenth-century-style sofas and armchairs, decorated chandeliers and the most important thing when searching for great cake in Germany, lots of smartly-dressed old people. 

Despite the café being incredibly busy our food and drink arrived in a flash. My coffee was good and the hot chocolate was totally scrummy, but the Black Forest Gâteau - oh my god, it was fantastic. 

It was immediately clear that the previous BFGs I'd tried were as nothing compared to the genuine article. This cake was breathtaking. Just so you don't think me over-the-top I'm going to give you a layer-by-layer breakdown of the gâteau (okay, maybe that won't help to dispel those thoughts but anyway). This might sound like overkill, but there was so much going on in this little slice of heaven it took me virtually until I'd finished it to work out what its constituent parts were.

It all began with a biscuit base: and I'm not talking about some namby-pamby vaguely hard sponge, this was a proper thin biscuity bottom, kind of like a Graham Cracker consistency. That was attached to the bottom of the cake by a fine but tasty spread of cherry conserve. Next up came a thin layer of chocolate sponge - light but properly chocolatey - and this was followed by the most delicious chocolate ganache that had flavoursome morello cherries scattered within. Next came a layer of plain sponge topped with cream whipped with Kirsch liqueur, not too much but just enough for a little kick, and then a thicker layer of chocolate sponge. As we approached the top of the cake there was another layer of whipped cream - without the Kirsch this time, and the whole thing was finished off with morello cherries and tissue-paper-thin flakes of chocolate.

Do you see what I mean? This delight bore no relation to the Black Forest Gâteaux you might find in the freezer cabinet at the supermarket. This was amazing. But given the dominance of those supermarket-style slices I suppose it's no wonder that it's fallen out of fashion. Rather than a sensational combination of flavours delivered in a rich-but-not-too-heavy slice, we've instead come to associate Black Forest Gâteaux with the bland, over-processed, generic "afters" that you might eat at a seventies bad-taste party.

Well I say that stops now. Let's have a revival of Black Forest Gâteaux, but let's make it the good stuff. I may even try to make one myself if I ever find myself with a full day to spare. But if you can't be bothered I can heartily recommend Café König as a place to try it if you happen to be passing - and given the complexity of the cake it might be easier to make the trip than attempt the recipe. Anyway, one always needs an excuse for a little trip doesn't one? And there can be few better excuses than this.

Prinzessin Käsekuchen (as I wish it was called)

Berlin is a city that is constantly changing. From the squat bars that I so loved in the early nineties to the coffee bars of today, it's the kind of place where you can never be sure that that little restaurant/bar/café that you loved visiting on your last trip is still going to be there on your next. Although that can be sad it's also what makes the city vibrant and exciting.

One of the things I could do without though is the glut of places that seem to open up nowadays with English names. I know it shouldn't make any difference as it's the place not the name that counts, but I can't help it: it just puts me off. An English name makes me think that it's either an ex-pat hangout (that probably wouldn't be a problem if I lived here full-time but as a part-timer I like to have some German in my Berlin time), or a place aimed squarely at tourists. Either way I tend to avoid the English-monikered joints. But recently I decided to make an exception. I say "I" but actually this was a Coffee Boy inspired visit. He put aside his even-more-vehement-than-me dislike of English café names and demanded that we visit Princess Cheesecake. I would say I was surprised but I have long-known that the word cheesecake is enough to make him go miles out of his way whatever country we are in. In fact, I still hear (on at least a monthly basis) about the time we were in Memphis and spotted a place called Cheesecake Corner and vowed to return the next day, when it reopened, to partake. Despite the fact we were heading down into the Mississippi delta that morning we took our planned detour only to discover that it was shut for the day. He still dreams of the thousands (that might be an exaggeration) of varieties he would have been able to choose from and the taste-sensation that could have been his.

Anyhoo, so Princess Cheesecake: we decided to go. Situated just off art-filled August Straße we checked out a few galleries on our way - just to make it seem like we had other interests than cake - and when we arrived picked a spot by the window. It's a fairly small place with only about five tables inside and a few more out on the pavement. Everything is painted the most beautiful shade of grey (my favourite) and the place is very much just-so. Not your typical Berlin hang-out at all. The counter is one long vitrine full of the most delicious looking cakes - and not just cheesecakes but everything from fruit baiser to chocolate gateaux. CB decided to try Zupfkuchen - a heady mixture of cheesecake and chocolate cake - and I had the most amazing salted caramel tart. My goodness it was gorgeous. In fact it was so good I completely forgot to take any pictures on that visit. I was so busy enjoying the cake I totally forgot I had a blog about afternoon tea at all.

So, there was nothing for it but a return visit. This time CB had a rhubarb baiser (a fruit tart with a light meringue topping) and I tried a pear and chocolate mousse cake. Wow, all four cakes we tried over our two visits were delicious. The fact that they're all hand made from natural ingredients without colours and preservatives just makes them all the better. Added to this direct-trade coffee and a truly fantastic selection of teas from Hamburg-based Samova and this place is definitely a winner.

I guess I should really learn from this experience and stop being so negative about places with English names. Certainly if Princess Cheesecake is anything to go by I really could be missing out. But I am still left wondering why places pick English names. Is it to appeal to tourists? I'd have thought most people who make the journey to Berlin want to experience something German. Is it to attract ex-pats? Surely there's not enough of them to sustain a business. Or is it just that people think that it sounds exotic, the way that places back home sometimes take a French or Italian name? (Hard to believe I know!) I'm not sure of the reason but after this experience I'm certainly going to do my best to put my prejudices aside. And if you share them I suggest you do the same. The cake here is just too good to be missed.

A Chic Combination

From time to time I get asked to go along and check out a new tea venture. It's always very nice to be asked but between work, trips abroad and life in general it rarely seems to work out. So I was pretty pleased to be invited to visit the Bond & Brook restaurant in Fenwick on Bond Street recently, and on a day that I was in London, not working and, joy of joys, already in the area. The fact that they had a new pairing with Tea Palace - whose cafe closure I have lamented previously - just made it all the more interesting.

I was the first to arrive which, as pretty much anyone who knows me will confirm, is not the norm. I realised I hadn't been upstairs in Fenwick for years and that since I was last there a major makeover had taken place. Gone was the 1950s department store feel: now the space is white, light, airy and ever so slightly intimidating - but considering that I hate clothes shopping and do at least ninety percent of it online it is probably unsurprising that this temple to fashion was a bit overwhelming for me. The chic white vibe is also very much in evidence in Bond & Brook. The space is dominated by a rather beautiful elliptical pewter bar, behind which is a white bookcase filled with tomes devoted to fashion. There is a selection of mid-century-modern furniture and everything looks crisp and glamorous. I was glad I'd made the effort to put on a dress as my usual jeans and trainers would have felt very out of place. Clearly this wasn't going to be somewhere you'd come to slob out and drink a quick cuppa.

I needn't have worried about being the first there as Gavin from Rhubarb, the top-end caterers who run the restaurant, chatted with me and soon made sure I had a glass of champagne in hand. Once the other tea enthusiasts had arrived we all sat down to a rather delicious afternoon tea accompanied by a selection of five of Tea Palace's offerings. As we sampled the sandwiches, cakes and scones, Tara, Tea Palace's founder, guided us through a fantastic selection of their wares. We sampled a Darjeeling, a Keemun, an Iron Goddess of Mercy Oolong, a Sencha and a Jasmine Silver Needle white tea. Each one was absolutely lovely: clean, crisp, perfectly brewed and full of flavour. These teas were a world away from the kind of dust-filled teabags you find in supermarkets. I don't want to get too fancy but there is something about tasting a series of really good teas that is enough to make you swear off the kind of rubbish that most Brits drink for life - if you haven't already of course. Once we had sampled each tea we got to choose a brew to savour throughout the rest of our visit: I opted for the Jasmine Silver Needle as, although I usually prefer a black tea with cake, the delicate taste of the white tea was just fantastic.

The food was more than a match for the tea with dainty finger sandwiches, French Fancies, a lovely moist brownie, delicious fruited scones with jam and clotted cream and one of the best Battenbergs I have ever tasted. The afternoon was made all the more enjoyable by sharing my table-for-two with Leanne from Tea Talk Magazine. It was so nice to find a kindred spirit who, like me, loved tea but would rather go without than drink a cup of bog-standard splosh.

All in all it was a very enjoyable afternoon sampling some really excellent tea and food. Bond & Brook certainly doesn't fall into the category of everyday tearoom - at £17.50 a head for their afternoon tea it's probably more of a treat for everyone except the wealthy ladies-that-lunch that I suspect make up a good portion of their clientele (please note that we had a taster afternoon tea rather than the whole kit and caboodle). But to go here it wouldn't have to be the ultra-special kind of occasion that results in a trip to one of the posh hotels either. Bond & Brook falls somewhere in the middle. In many ways it reminds me of Tea Palace's own cafe that used to be in Notting Hill - and I was certainly disappointed when they closed. Aside from the quality of the goods on offer my favourite thing was the feeling of serenity - especially given its location just off Oxford Street - and I can well imagine heading there with a friend I hadn't seen for a while or when I think that afternoon tea can act as a substitute for the restaurant dinner I can't be bothered to hang around for. Either way, I will definitely be returning. And with such a central location there's every likelihood that you Londoners will be passing that way too. If you're in the mood for a glamorous and delicious afternoon treat look no further.

The Perfect Scone Recipe

Much as I love baking there has always been one sizable chink in my armour: the ability to make good scones. On the occasions when I have decided that nothing but a homemade cream tea will do I have attempted to make scones, but something always goes wrong. They're either too small; too hard; or too biscuity - always edible but just not right. More often than not I just throw in the towel before I even begin and opt for rock buns instead. Yesterday though I had the most delicious homemade cream tea and this time the scones were perfect. OK, I need to fess up. I didn't make them. It was actually my supremely talented sister but I have been given step-by-step instructions and I'm pretty sure I could replicate their deliciousness all on my own.

Of course the brilliant thing about scones is that you can whip them up in less than half an hour and if you've got some clotted cream and good jam to hand (who doesn't?)  you are absolutely golden. The key to making great scones, I now discover, is to not handle the mixture too much. But don't worry, I'll be reminding you about that until you're ready to scream "OK I get it". But you'll thank me for it when you're stuffing your face with light pillows of deliciousness.

This is a recipe for fruit scones (anyone who reads this blog even occasionally knows that my perfect scone is fruited) but if you're the kind of crazy person who likes them plain just omit the fruit and sugar. But really, why would you?

To make 6-8 Scones
225g (8oz) self raising flour
pinch salt
50g (2oz) butter at room temperature
25g (1oz) caster sugar
50g (2oz) currants/sultanas
1 egg beaten with enough milk to make 150ml (1/4 pint) liquid - the closer these are to room temperature the better

• Heat oven to 220ºC/200ºC fan/425ºF/gas mark 7
• Grease a baking tray with a little butter.
• Sift the flour and salt into the largest bowl you have and rub in the butter until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. It is a good idea to do this with your palms facing upwards as this incorporates more air into the mixture. You could try this with a food processor but again, the lack of air could be a problem (going by my previous attempts...)
• Stir in the sugar and fruit but take care not to overwork the mixture
• Add the milk and egg mixture all in one go, reserving a little to brush the tops with. Stir with a spoon or palette knife until well incorporated but again DO NOT OVERWORK THE MIXTURE
• Turn out onto a well-floured surface and very lightly roll to 2cm (1in) thick (remember you are not overworking that mixture...)
• Cut into 6-7cm (2-3in) rounds
• Brush the tops with the remaining egg and milk
• Bake for about 10 minutes
• Leave to cool on the tray for 5 minutes before transferring to a wire rack - but not for too long, these babies are best eaten warm

Serve with your favourite jam, I went for Tiptree raspberry, and lashings of clotted cream. Forget whipped cream: its light airy texture is all wrong with scones (I still have nightmares about a cream tea I was once served with whipped cream). If you are unfortunate enough to live in a place where clotted cream is not available, go for the kind of extra thick double cream that requires spooning not pouring.

I find that all that richness is best accompanied with a fairly robust black tea so yesterday I blended a Yunnan & Keemun to create a Russian Caravan. Even if I do say so myself it was damn good. And for the perfect finishing touch I served it all up on my lovely new (old) Alfred Meakin tea set. Isn't it gorgeous? Only problem is there are a few scones left so it looks like I'll have to do it all again today. Oh well. No one can say I'm not a trooper for the cause.